Is Paris a Good Place to Live?

My first few visits to Paris were intended to be as a visitor, a tourist, and not someone who actually wanted to move there. I knew that people uprooted their lives and somehow made the move, but I never thought that was an option for me. It seemed so out of reach, and honestly, I didn’t even consider it for myself. I was happy just to come now and then, enjoying the food and shopping and ambiance that only Paris offers. As my trips increased, I naturally started to wonder if Paris is a good place to live because I began wanting to explore that as an option.

Paris has become increasingly appealing to live for many people who are considering a move abroad. Like myself, a single woman in her mid-40s, divorced, and monetarily sound, I realized that this fantasy could become reality. With reality comes the side of Paris that you don’t always see as a tourist, and that’s very important to distinguish between when deciding whether this move is something you really want.

While Paris is visually appealing all of the time, there are things about it that some people end up not liking, whether it’s the strikes, some lack of efficiencies that Americans are used to, the noise, or something else. As my desire to live in Paris became stronger, I would visit with a more critical eye instead of looking at it like a postcard. I went back and forth, through every scenario possible, and did come to the conclusion that Paris was the right next step for me. Now I’m living in Paris and couldn’t be happier.

If moving to Paris is on your radar, check out my guide about how to move to Paris as an American. It might help you to get your process started and be part of this most amazing city before you know it.

During my decision process of whether I should move to Paris, I spoke to several people who had moved there. Some had moved there at a young age to be an au pair, some for work, a few were part-time residents. I gathered as much information from others as I could, and then I went deep into myself to understand what I was yearning for and wanting. There’s no way to know if you’re making a right or wrong choice per se, but there are methods of how to make a big life decision that you can utilize to reduce the uncertainty in yourself.

In any case, in order to live in Paris as an American longer than the current rules allow, you must get a visa. Making the decision of what type of visa is allowed is a whole situation in itself, and it will depend on how you want to live in Paris and what you want to do, if anything, for work. Because I own my own business and my primary work is online, I was able to get a long stay visitor visa. With this, I had to show sufficient funds to support myself, which through years of squirreling away money allowed me to do. The key is preparation, and a move to Paris definitely requires this.

There are several things to consider when moving, such as lifestyle, budget, your priorities, friendships, and other. Each of our reasons for wanting to move is so different, and I could only tell you my own desires here. Yours are going to be rather different, and your process will look quite different. I spent a lot of time dreaming about what my life would look like in Paris, and I began to execute getting here little by little until one day I actually moved. It was one of the best decisions I’ve ever made, and it didn’t come lightly. I worked hard at getting here, and I’m thrilled that I made the effort. If Paris is on your heart, I’d encourage you to seriously explore it.

A Typical Market in the Opéra Neighborhood 

Taking my pets to Paris with me was the biggest reality check and difference in coming as a tourist versus as being a resident. My routine with my dog especially changed, as I used to let him out in my backyard to use the bathroom first thing in the morning. Now I have to harness him, leash him, and take him down 5 floors by elevator each morning (and every other time during the day he has to use the bathroom). Before getting to Paris, I visualized this happening because I didn’t want to be frustrated off the bat, feeling like I have greatly inconvenienced myself or him. Now it’s just part of our morning routine.

Some other differences are our modes of transportation. The ways of how to get around Paris are endless, and the biggest difference for us is not driving. Instead, we mostly take an e-bike with a company called Lime, or we take public transportation like the metro or bus. Both of those ways were not available to us in the US where we lived, and the change has been quite refreshing. He rides in my backpack all over, and I am happy to be his courier.

One other mention is how we do our grocery shopping. There are regular supermarkets that have everything, like milk, veggies, meats, and cereal, but buying from the specialty stores is pretty awesome. Designated cheese shops, butchers, and seafood markets are something that I am enjoying seeing all over the city, in every neighborhood. To me, everything about the lifestyle fit where I was in life and what I wanted, and now I get to live it. A lot of mental preparation came with this, and I wouldn’t discount that when considering your own move.

What I absolutely love about living here in Paris is that there are rituals and routines you develop to enhance your overall life. Going to your favorite neighborhood bakery becomes a Saturday morning ritual, buying some flowers for yourself at the flower shop around the corner, saying hi to the nail shop ladies as you pass. It’s not just rushing to the Eiffel Tower to see it sparkle or running around the Louvre to see a painting you actually don’t care that much about. It’s a slow pace of life, and one that is thoroughly enjoyable.

It’s possible to get by in Paris with just speaking English, but learning the language will enhance your experience here and give you more connection to the country in which you chose to live. As for myself, I’m taking language lessons from a French native, one-on-one, so that I can quickly immerse myself in this culture. I’ll always be American first, but I’d like to embrace my chosen country’s language and culture as well.

Taking the Metro with My Bud

Any major city has pros and cons and tradeoffs. The very things that make a place wonderful can also make it very challenging. Living in Paris proper means having cafés and restaurants on every corner. It also means street noise, smaller living spaces, and limited green spaces. We especially notice the lack of green spaces because my poor dog, Tater Tot, now has to poop on the pavement. It’s the way of life now, and his tradeoff is that he gets to be with me constantly because of how dog-friendly the city is. Let’s go over a few more pros and cons, though.

Advantages of Living in Paris

• Excellent public transportation. Between the metro, buses, RER, trams, trains, and bike-sharing options, getting around this city is extremely easy without having a car.
• Walkability. In my opinion, Paris is best walked. You are strolling through an outdoor museum, and each street has something beautiful to offer. If you can walk, do it as much as possible.
• Incredible food. The food scene is out of this world. Boulangeries, pâtisseries, outdoor markets, cheese shops, wine shops galore, cafés, and restaurants are literally everywhere.
• Culture everywhere. There are so many amazing things to do here. You can go to concerts in churches, ogle at the architecture, dance on the Seine, or go to the theater. Paris offers it all, and there’s always a rotating offering here.
• Beautiful surroundings. Paris never gets old. An ordinary walk to the pharmacy can be walking past the most beautiful old doors or passing hidden courtyards you may be able to peep.
• Access to green spaces. Paris is dense, but there are loads of parks and green spaces if you do want to feel some grass under your bare feet, or let your dog pee on something other than the side of a building.
• Easy travel throughout France and Europe. Paris is such a great hub for getting around to other parts of France or Europe. Because I visit the Christmas markets around Europe each year, this was a big deal to me. Paris makes that simple.
• Neighborhood culture. I live in Montmartre, and this neighborhood has it all, plus more. At times I fear never leaving because of how culturally rich it is, and each neighborhood has this type of feeling.
• There is always more to discover. After you think you’ve seen it all, Paris will offer more. There’s no way to do every single thing here, even in a lifetime, so know that if you move to Paris, you will always have something new to discover.

Disadvantages of Living in Paris

• Housing can be expensive. I’ll be honest. For an American, housing is not actually that expensive for a big city. When I got rid of my car note, insurance, and mortgage, I found my little apartment to be quite affordable for what I get. Rent will likely be one of your biggest costs, though, so keep that in mind.
• Apartments can be small. I had to sell most of my things back in the US to fit into my little one bedroom apartment in Paris. At this stage of my life, I was ok with that because the tradeoff for me was living in the best city in the world.
• Finding an apartment can be difficult. Because I was a real estate broker in the US, I knew what I was looking for in an agent, so I interviewed several. The one I chose was Guava Partners, who found my apartment in one day. I can’t promise the same speediness for you, but he works with expats and I couldn’t recommend him enough if you’re moving to Paris.
• Bureaucracy can be frustrating. Between getting the right visa, figuring out how to get three pets here, setting up a phone number and utilities, and other administrative tasks, it can be exhausting. It’s worth it, though, for living in Paris. At least to me.
• Language barriers are real. Many Americans do not know French well enough to be considered “French enough” to the French. They will often switch to English, and it can be uncomfortable. My recommendation is to take lessons before and during your time here.
• Paris can feel crowded. If you’ve ever been on a metro at 5 or 6 o’clock, you’ll know what crowded feels like. The sidewalks can be congested, and one thing to know is that Parisians often do not move over so you’re essentially playing chicken to see who will move first. I look at it as a game now.
• Summer heat can be difficult. I arrived in the middle of a heat wave in Paris, and I have no air conditioning in my apartment. It was the closest thing to living on the sun as I ever want to get. I’ll be buying a unit during the winter when they reduce in price. I’m not trying to suffer through another summer.
• City noise is part of life. What would Paris be without the sirens and clacking of the suitcases on the sidewalks? You hear city noise wherever you go, some places more than others. As I write this, I hear loud construction going on while my window is open. It’s charming.
• Some everyday conveniences are different. Store hours are sometimes not accurate, delivery expectations are very different, customer service is almost non-existent, and things simply work differently than what we Americans are used to. It’s ok, it just takes some re-wiring of how you operate.
• You have to build a new community. As thrilling as moving abroad is, you’re essentially on your own a lot. You have to build your community almost from scratch, and that can feel lonely at times. The friendships you do create, though, can be more solid than any others you have had in life because you all know what it took to get here.

Patiently Waiting for the Elevator in the Morning

How much Paris costs to live is entirely up to your budget. It’s important to do as much research on the front end as you can so you generally know what you’re getting yourself into. There are neighborhoods, apartments, and lifestyle choices that will affect how much your time in Paris will cost you per month. Housing is almost surely going to be the biggest variable. Living away from the center and/or in a studio apartment will cost you much less than a fully renovated one or two bedroom in a central location. Other considerations are elevators, air conditioning, building condition, and proximity to transportation will play into this.

When you do create a budget, here are some things to consider:

• Rent: typically your largest monthly expense and highly dependent on location and size.
• Utilities: electricity, gas (if applicable), water, and heating.
• Internet and phone: significantly less than in the US, but still an expense per month.
• Groceries: where you shop will matter, and it does take some time to establish these habits.
• Restaurants and cafés: if you go out to eat frequently, your budget will have to be higher than someone (like myself) who eats at home most of the time.
• Transportation: factor in your metro or transit pass, biking, ride shares, or other.
• Healthcare and insurance: your situation will depend on your visa, residency status, and eligibility for the French healthcare system.
• Pet expenses: pets aren’t cheap! You’ll need vet care, food, treats, registration requirements, and sometimes specific types of transport for pets.
• Entertainment: museums, concerts, fitness classes, shopping, nightlife, and travel can add to the monthly bill.
• Travel: you’re in Paris and so centrally located in Europe. You’ll want to budget for travel, even if it’s a train here or there around France.

While planning my budget, I often thought about what I wasn’t going to be paying for anymore: exorbitant healthcare, a car note, and groceries that cost a fortune. The Paris lifestyle is much more reasonably priced than people think, despite being a very large city. Look at your own numbers, be rational about what you can spend (or not spend) each month, and plan accordingly. This is different for everyone, so don’t use someone else’s numbers to create your own spreadsheet.

Neighborhood Concert in Montmartre

As an American who moved to Paris, I was advised by my real estate agent to be open-minded to where I would end up. In order to rent a long-term apartment off the bat, you have to work with the right people. Otherwise, many Americans think their only choice is to get a temporary place (like an AirBnB) for a few months and then start the longer term hunt. I didn’t want to do that, as I have three pets and did not want to haul them around the city. My agent works with many expats, has the right connections, and found me my apartment in the 18th almost immediately. I wasn’t familiar with my area, but the apartment was absolutely perfect for me, and now I am settled into a furnished residence comfortably. My advice would be the same as my agent’s: be open.

Some areas to consider when searching for an apartment:

Montmartre - 18th Arrondissement

I hadn’t spent much time in Montmartre before moving here, but I’m pretty obsessed with it now that I live here. Everyone goes to the artist square, Place du Tertre, maybe to get themselves drawn or painted, or to Sacré-Cœur, but living here is totally different. The vibe is completely local, and it’s a very regular neighborhood - one that I am thrilled to be part of. The hills can be a bit challenging, so do take that into consideration, but otherwise I would consider it if you’re moving here.

9th Arrondissement

If I’m being honest, and I will be, I wanted very much to live in the 9th when I moved to Paris. The 18th borders the 9th, so I’m not far, but there’s nothing like walking down Rue des Martyrs and popping into all kinds of delicious food shops and boutiques. You’re within walking distance to so much, including Montmartre and Opéra. When I’m riding into the more central arrondissements, I often go through the 9th to get to them. Highly recommend this one!

10th Arrondissement

The nice thing about the 10th is that it has so much going on there. There are loads of restaurants and bars, as well as the beautiful Canal Saint-Martin, a great place to sit and relax and people-watch. You’ve got Gare de l’Est and Gare du Nord right there, so hopping on a train is no problem from this area. The atmosphere can vary from street to street, so make sure you know where you’ll be living before signing up for a long term lease.

11th Arrondissement

I like the 11th because it’s bordering the Marais area, but much less crowded and frenzied. It’s considered a hip place to live among Parisians, as there are loads of bars and lots of nightlife, as well as good restaurants and cafés. This is an area you would not feel like you’re settling for anything less than vibrant. The Seine is right there as well, so an evening or morning walk is always a lovely idea while living in the 11th arrondissement.

17th Arrondissement

My second most desired area to live was the 17th arrondissement. Luckily, I also border that in Montmartre, and love riding my bike over there for different things. Batignolles is a very happening area with shops and restaurants. It’s very condensed there, but feels like a true Paris neighborhood. The street that sold me on the 17th was Rue de Lévis, which is a pedestrian street that is completely dreamy, particularly at dusk. Consider this area if you move to Paris.

Biking Around Paris

From what I discuss with other expats, there is something about Paris that makes them want to make the effort to move here. Like myself, the fire inside of me only got stronger with each trip I took, and I couldn’t deny it any longer. When I got serious about moving here, things fell into place almost perfectly. It’s still hard to believe how well everything went. I knew, though, that Paris was in my story. There was no denying that I would live here one day, for however long feels right.

There are many ways for you to get to Paris and live. You can be a student, a nanny, a retiree, start a business. France is relatively generous with allowing us misfit Americans to live in their country, and I love being part of that number.

Going abroad, however, requires a tolerance for surprises, uncertainty, and a lot of paperwork. You’re not moving from an apple to an apple. In fact, I often comment to my other expat friends that it feels like we are living on a different planet despite being in a modern culture in Europe. Things are just different here, and it’s hard to explain until you actually do it.

You’ll have your own set of challenges to face, like language learning, or getting pets here. Exercising patience and understanding is of the utmost importance. I know at times it’s hard for me to practice what I preach, but mostly, I am rolling with however France and Paris operate without fussing too much. It’s a good idea to do that.

Whatever it is that’s making you want to move here, I’d listen to it. A city often holds things for us that we don’t yet know, and it’s within this one life that we are able to discover these things. Paris was my dream, and it’s a lot of people’s dreams. The difference is that I made it happen, and so many don’t. But YOU…if you’re reading this and have read this much, I have a feeling you might also make it happen. Know that you’re not alone, you have other expats willing to help, and you are strong enough to make this dream your reality. So what do you say? Want to make Paris your home?

If you liked this blog, you might also like the one I wrote about how to move to Paris or how to create the life you want.

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