10 Best Covered Passages in Paris 

Paris is full of little secrets, nooks and crannies. It’s a place that you will discover new things all the time, many in plain sight but completely unobvious. Many of the most interesting places are tucked away behind entrances and big doors that you walk right past. The amazing covered passages of Paris are a perfect example of this, and I am very excited to share my favorites with you.

These glass-roofed walkways are all over the Right Bank, mainly residing in the 2nd and 9th arrondissements, and they are all vastly different. When I discovered they existed, it became somewhat of a treasure hunt to find more, no matter how short or long they are. I wanted to walk through each of them and see what I could find. You’ll find anything from mosaic floors to book stores, even a hotel. There are restaurants, boutiques, and shops that feel like they haven’t been touched in forever.

I’ve been to several throughout my trips to Paris, but when I moved here, I wanted to go deeper and visit more of them, and that’s why I decided to write this. If this type of history is something you enjoy, it won’t take you any time to pop into a few on your trip to Paris. Some are stunningly gorgeous, and some are plain as can be. A few of them surprised me, and I liked seeing how different each one is. No two are remotely the same, and that’s what makes them so special.

Unless you come to Paris often, I wouldn’t say hunting every passage down is a necessity, but this will give you a good start to visiting at least a few, if you want to nerd out like I do. Let’s see which 10 covered passages in Paris I think are worth a visit.

The covered passages of Paris were essentially an early version of a shopping mall. They first appeared in Paris toward the end of the 18th century, with many more popping up during the first half of the 19th century. At that time, Paris was not paved and streets could get muddy, crowded, and unpleasant to walk. The passages provided a cleaner and more sophisticated place to stroll, shop, dine, and socialize. People were also protected from the outside elements because of the roofs.

Some had gas lighting, beautiful and elaborate storefronts, tiled floors, and the glass ceilings, making them feel very modern for their time. Even today, people walk through them, have meals together, shop, and the passages serve as protection from the rain.

Gorgeous Roof at Galerie Vivienne

Covered passages were quite fashionable during the first half of the 1800s. At their peak, there were over 100 of them, giving Parisians a reprieve from hunting and pecking their way across the city to find this or that. Instead, they could go to the passage, buy certain things, eat with friends, and stay out of the muddy streets. However, their popularity would sadly not last.

Baron Haussmann, who redesigned Paris around the mid-19th century, transformed the streets of Paris, making the narrow streets much wider (into boulevards), and these define much of the city streets today. This changed how Parisians got around, moved through the city, shopped, and spent their leisure time.

Department stores also began to emerge. Le Bon Marché was one of the world’s first modern department stores, developed in the 1850s and 1860s. It offered shoppers a tremendous selection of goods under one roof, and it is still this way today. In fact, it’s one of my favorite places to shop in Paris as far as department stores go. They always have a new display and theme throughout the entire store, and it’s fun to see how it changes. Printemps opened on Boulevard Haussmann in 1865, and La Samaritaine in 1870, with Galeries Lafayette following in 1894.

The department store craze offered things that the small covered passage shops could not: multiple floors of clothing, accessories, household goods, and other merchandise all in one location. Because of Haussmann’s new boulevards, shopping was shifted towards the department stores and away from the covered passages. Many of the passages disappeared, but the ones that have survived give you an awesome glimpse into a time period long ago. When you go, soak up the beautiful glass ceilings, the gorgeous storefronts, eat a bite in one of the restaurants, browse paintings or maps or books, and support the small boutiques. No two are alike, which you’ll understand when I describe each.

Bookstore in Passage Verdeau

Galerie Vivienne

Galerie Vivienne is located in the 2nd arrondissement, and is the quintessential Parisian covered passage. This is one of my top choices to start, and if you only visit one, this would be it. It opened in 1826 and boasts the most beautiful mosaic floors and glass ceiling. It just feels grand. You can find plenty of different boutiques here, including bookstores, restaurants, boutiques, and candy shops. It’s very close to Palais Royal and Bibliothèque Nationale de France, placing it close to other main attractions. It’s also close to one of my favorite hotels, Hotel Filigrane, which is on my list of best boutique hotels for solo travelers.

Passage des Panoramas

The word that comes to mind for this passage is: chaotic. Passage des Panoramas is in the 2nd arrondissement, and a totally different experience than Galerie Vivienne, despite being very close by. It was opened around 1800, and is one of the oldest running passages in Paris. It’s like being at your grandma’s house, where it’s a bit cluttered and lived-in. There are a few restaurants, but you can find stamp, postcard, and collectible shops as well. You’ll see old signs, narrow corridors, constant crowds, and historic details. The passage has loads of character. The nice thing is that when you cross Boulevard Montmartre, you’ll jump right into Passage Jouffroy.

Passage Jouffroy

Also in the 9th, you’ll find Passage Jouffroy. It opened in 1847 and has one of the most beautiful ceilings. The glass and ironwork are stunning. This passage is quite long, and even rounds a corner. You’ll find anything from sweet shops to books to toys, and it’s all behind old-fashioned storefronts. Hôtel Chopin is even located within this passage, and that sits beside the Musée Grévin, which is a wax museum. After you’re finished perusing Passage Jouffroy, move on to Passage Verdeau.

Passage Verdeau

Another 9th arrondissement passage, Passage Verdeau has the amazing ironwork and glass ceiling, and it was originally opened in 1847. If you’re a lover of antique books, old photographs, prints, collectibles, or similar, this is a passage you don’t want to miss. I discovered the quaintest bookstore with ancient books. I didn’t want to leave! It’s a relatively short passage, but definitely worth hitting, especially if you’re already visiting Jouffroy and Panoramas.

Passage du Grand Cerf

When you walk into Passage du Grand Cerf (2nd arrondissement), the wood storefronts are simply breathtaking. The glass and iron roof are so high, and it feels very open and bright. I discovered all kinds of quirky shops there, including a pillow/fabric shop, a patch personalization shop (where they sew patches onto your clothes), and even a shop with odd jewelry. The tiled floor is an interesting contrast to the wood that lines the whole passage. Architecturally and aesthetically, this is a really great passage to visit.

Galerie Véro-Dodat

Galerie Véro-Dodat has to be the most posh covered passage I visited, and it’s not surprising considering it’s in the 1st arrondissement. It’s not a long one, but it’s a significant one. Built in the 1820s, this short gallery had it all. You feel very royal walking through with the black and white tiled flooring and dark wood storefronts. I found everything from a salon to a specialty leather shop with handbags and other small leather goods to keep my attention. There were a couple of shoe stores as well, which I chose not to go into for fear of spending all my money on new shoes. After my visit to Il Bisonte Paris and my chat with the lady who worked there, I ate at the café at the beginning of it called Café de L’Epoque. It was delicious and I highly recommend the whole shebang.

Passage Choiseul

Passage Choiseul is a great place to explore. It’s in the 2nd, located near the Richelieu Library, and it’s a place I have explored over and over. Choiseul is actually one of my favorite passages because it contains a stationery/paper shop called Boinard-Stern that I absolutely love to linger in. In my last visit, I also discovered that they carry a brand of purses local to France, which is also an interest of mine. I’ve worked at Café Joyeux, writing some other pieces when I visited. This passage has it all, and I would highly recommend budgeting some time to pop in and out of the businesses and restaurants here. It’s truly worth every minute you spend.

Passage Brady

Passage Brady is wildly different than the others. It’s filled with Indian, Pakistani, Bangladeshi, and other South Asian restaurants, all lined back to back, and located in a totally different arrondissement than the others: the 10th. You’ll find spice shops and grocery stores with the aroma of delicious food wafting through the air. Go hungry and leave very happy at any one of the restaurants. They will all beckon you in for a bite. It’s not a long passage, but it’s a very robust one.

Passage du Bourg l’Abbé

Passage du Bourg l’Abbé is easy to ignore because it’s not that visually stimulating. It’s actually quite plain, and when I went, there wasn’t a whole lot of activity. It’s in an interesting part of the 2nd arrondissement, but only a short walk from Passage du Grand Cerf, so you can hit both on the same day. It was formerly part of a larger network of passages in the area, but it’s clearly quieter today. This is a quick in-and-out situation, and I like it because it gives some perspective on the others.

Passage du Caire

I won’t lie, Passage du Caire, located in the 2nd, creeped me out a little. The most redeeming quality was that it smelled clean because of a dry cleaning (or some other similar business) at work. The interesting thing is that it’s very old, from 1798, and considered the longest covered passage in Paris. It’s a bit of a maze, and one I was happy to leave. It’s heavily associated with the garment and textile trade. You’ll see wholesalers actually assembling clothes or other items in bulk, which was pretty cool. It’s a working commercial passage, and like Bourg l’Abbé, it doesn’t take much time to walk through.

Bonus: Galerie Colbert

Very near to Galerie Vivienne is Galerie Colbert. This is wildly different from the other passages, as it’s now associated with cultural and academic institutions. There’s no commerce, and if you ask me, not much reason to go through except to see another covered passage. It takes two minutes to see, so if you’re in the area, pop in. Otherwise, you’re not missing much.

Passage du Grand Cerf

Resoundingly yes, the covered passages of Paris are worth a visit. Before going on a wild goose chase during your stay in Paris, do a little research and see which ones are the most important for you to visit. They all have a little something special to them, so each one will appeal to a different audience. The top three I would recommend are Galerie Vivienne, Passage Choiseul, and Passage Jouffroy. Those are personal to me, but you’ll have your own top 3, I guarantee. Each is special, and each holds a piece of Paris history that is worth exploring.

If you enjoyed this piece, you might also like reading my Right Bank, Paris Guide or what to reserve in Paris when you come.

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